How to hit a ball correctly with a cue. How to learn how to correctly perform different types of shots in billiards: video

Most beginners and “intermediate” players believe that the reason is not high level their games are due to lack of proper concentration. This is only partly true.

The main source of neophyte mistakes is imperfect technology. Meanwhile, this is the most important thing, without which progress is basically impossible.

Take a closer look at the players in the club: “amateurs” for the most part do not realize the critical importance of setting up technique. They know a lot - about reeling, guying, screws, exits, but cannot effectively use this knowledge because they lack the technical arsenal. Why? They skipped the first stage of training - setting up a strike. With the shot they have, they can pocket a ball or two or three, but they can’t get the ball together with the cue because of the instability of the shot.

Moreover, many players are not even aware of the imperfection of their shot. Meanwhile, they could raise their game by paying more attention to technique. The problem is that a number of subtle points simply cannot be explained on paper, and only the eyes of an experienced professional will help “set up” the striking movement correctly. Believe me, it’s not in vain that every author of a book about billiards recommends that beginning players take a couple of lessons - this is the simplest, fastest and effective way start playing billiards, and not just roll balls around the clearing.

In our opinion, the ideal training course for beginners can be divided into 4 stages:

1. First and most important- staging the right blow. This tedious work on yourself takes a lot of time and effort, but it is absolutely necessary in order to play billiards decently.

2. After the player achieves some progress in technique (for example, consistently collects a line of 15 balls), it is time for him to engage in “advanced” techniques: stopping the cue ball, rolling, pulling, side kicks and become interested in positional play. During the game it is extremely important not to forget about technique. In this case, by using push-ups and pull-ups in practice, a novice billiard player will be able to significantly improve his technique, comprehend nuances that are not obvious at first glance, and significantly improve his game.

3. Third stage: tactical game, the concept of role-playing, the board system, specific strikes (“arcs”, jumps, etc.). At this level, a whole new technical arsenal must be practiced in combination with the correct approach to each blow.

4. It is noteworthy that after the student has mastered almost the entire theory, he returns to where he started: improving the technique. EFPB Lead Instructors David Alfiere and Uwe Sander believe that “most of the mistakes that a player at this level still makes are due to poor technique and rarely occur due to a lack of theoretical knowledge.”

Before moving on to the consideration of the most important technical parameters - stance, grip, wrist rest (bridge) and cue movement, we emphasize once again - only a single algorithm of actions in the approach to each blow (whether it is a blow “from the hand”, when object ball“hanging” in the pocket, or a thin cut across the entire clearing) and a perfectly developed uniform technique can make your game more stable. Without this, you will very soon discover that no amount of effort and hours of practice will make the game better.

Rack

Billiards is a very democratic sport: it is played by men and women, young and old, fat and thin, tall and short people. Obviously, it is almost impossible to find a universal position of the legs and body that is suitable for everyone. When you approach a strike, it is only necessary to meet three basic conditions:

1) convenient and reliable position of the body:

2) straight guidance of the cue;

3) free play of the cue.

Nevertheless, we will still risk giving some general recommendations, but they are applicable with some reservations. First: do not stand frontally and sideways to the impact vector. Place your feet at approximately an angle of 30–45° to the aiming line. Secondly, we repeat, the stand should be such that the position of the body does not interfere with the straightness and as even as possible with respect to playing field cue movement. According to David Alfiere and Uwe Sander, raising the turnik by 1 cm gives an error in the hitting technique of 1 to 2 percent. A player who “raises” the cue handle by 15 cm has a half-time excess error rate of 15–30 percent!!! And third, it is recommended to keep your supporting (for right-handed people - left) hand straight, which will allow us to eliminate one of the variables.

Grip

A good grip is essential in billiards.

The correct grip is a component of a good shot.

An incorrect grip will limit the growth of your level of play.

The grip should be loose and relaxed. Never squeeze the cue too hard - your grip should be light both when aiming and when making a shot. Try to use two or three fingers to support the cue and your thumb to prevent the cue from falling out of your hand.

The wrist and forearm should be in line.

Do not bend the half-clenched fist holding the cue outward or inward. Do not strain your hand at the wrist at all: the wrist joint should work freely, like a hinge.

Among other things, it is necessary to determine where to take the cue. Is it necessary to take the cue by the lower cup of the turnik? To determine this, you need to calculate the center of gravity of the cue, which can be done by trying to balance your cue on your index finger. Remember this point as your “reference point.” Depending on your height, you should pick up the cue at least 15cm from the center of gravity. If you are short, grab the cue closer to the “reference point” and, conversely, if you are tall, you better keep the cue away from the “reference point”.

“Don’t grip the cue like a baseball bat, wrapping all five fingers tightly around it. Don't hold it with just your fingertips, like a dude holding a teaspoon. Most players grip the cue lightly but firmly with their thumb and forefinger. One or two more fingers hold the cue loosely from below. When retracting the cue during the backswing, support it only with your thumb and forefinger, and when striking, support it with all five fingers.”

The same Byrne noted:

“Please do not write to me that two of the greatest billiard players of all time, Willie Hopps and Ralph Greenleaf, violated certain regulations... Talent, years of intense training, a fanatical will to win can compensate for any technical flaws. And for those who, due to the nature of their work, do not have the opportunity to play pool from morning to evening, it is better to adhere to orthodox methods.”

Impact and swing movement of the cue

The swing hand is the hand that holds the cue by the turnik (a right-handed person holds the cue with his right hand, a left-handed person, respectively, with his left). Tall players hold the cue slightly closer to the edge than short players and children. How to determine your grip location? The simplest and most reliable way: when bringing the cue stick to the cue ball, the forearm of the swing hand should look perpendicularly down and the shoulder-forearm angle should be close to 90".

The advantage of this grip is that the cue moves freely and the hand travels the same distance both during the swing and when tracking. This provision is considered optimal, but is by no means mandatory.

Another important issue is the correct position of the hand on which the striking part of the cue slides, and the distance between the cue ball and the hand. During aiming, the hand, cue ball and part of the cue adjacent to the sticker appearance resemble a bridge. The accuracy of the strike largely depends on the length of this unique bridge. Typically, it is recommended to maintain this distance within 20–25 cm. If the distance of the hand from the ball is too small or, conversely, too large, it is difficult to perform an accurate hit. Before striking, you should place your hand with your palm on the cloth with your fingers extended forward and gradually bend your palm into an arc so that your hand rests on the table with your wrist and the pads of the first three fingers, starting with the little finger. Despite the fact that there are large differences in the structure of the fingers and the nature of their flexion in different players, this hand should provide both a comfortable support, guiding the cue to the point of impact, and a strong, stable support for the athlete’s body on the table. It is very important from the very beginning to accustom yourself to firmly press your thumb to your index finger: only in this case, firstly, the cue will slide easily along the hand and, secondly, unwanted vibrations of the cue in the vertical direction, up and down, which reduce the accuracy of the strike, are eliminated . It is equally important to hold the cue correctly with the hand with which you strike. If you hold the cue with a slightly relaxed hand and make preliminary swings, trying to press your elbow to your body as much as is comfortable, then there will be no special problems in mastering this technique. The place where the hand grips the turnik is where the cue responds well to the slightest intended forward movement, where it is obedient, like a bow in the hand of a violinist. A strong grip should be avoided - this is a clear path to failure. When the cue is held by hand in the right place, the forearm forms almost a right angle with it. If following the above recommendations still does not help you feel the ease of wielding the cue, if the player continues to experience inconvenience and unnecessary stress, this cue is not suitable for him.

Basic requirements for the player at the moment of striking:

The ball is hit only with a sticker. Any other blow - with a horizontal bar, with the side of the cue - is not allowed;

In any position of the body and arms, at least one leg of the player must touch the floor during the strike;

The first hit in the game, called play "from hand", is made after the player first places the cue ball with his hand anywhere in the "house", the moment the cue ball passes the "house" line is the beginning of the game;

The game “from hand” is also played when playing “pyramid”, when the blow passes to one of the partners after the cue ball falls into the pocket from the previous blow, as well as by the player after he puts the cue ball into the pocket when playing “Moscow Pyramid”;

At the moment of the hand strike, the player’s body and legs should not go beyond the line of continuation of the long boards (left and right).

Bridges

There are two main types of wrist rest, which is also called a bridge (bridge - direct borrowing from English): open and closed rests. Robert Byrne believes that "the open bridge is only suitable for shots with low power, no side spin or difficult access to the cue ball." In other cases, he recommends that beginners use a closed one - “they already have enough problems...<и>...without reliable support, one can hardly expect to advance beyond the category of “suckers.”

However, this is not an axiom - Ralph Souquet, who plays with an open stop, and Johnny Archer, who smashes (!) from an open bridge, come to mind.

American coach Jack Keller sees the reason why most pros play with a closed wrist rest because many of them started playing as children. The handles of future pins were short, so they held the cue at the center of gravity, or even closer to the center. And to secure the shaft, they had to use a closed stop. Growing up, they, of course, adhered to the usual technique.

Closed bridge

1) Place your hand on the table, palm down (Fig. 2).

Turn your hand so that your fingers are pointing at one o'clock (imagine that your hand is resting on a watch dial).

2) Place the shaft of the cue (closest to the tip) across the knuckle of the thumb and across the second knuckle of the middle finger (Figure 3).

3) Now try to wrap your index finger around the shaft and straighten your fingers. For people with stiff joints, this may be the most difficult. But don't despair! This will take some practice, but it's really not that difficult (Figure 4).

4) Move your thumb forward towards the tip of your index finger to form a closed ring around the shaft. Try to keep the cue level with the table surface. Now straighten your arm at the forearm. Try to fix your elbow. The brush will rotate slightly in a clockwise direction. This will tighten your grip on the shaft, so you will have to loosen your grip by moving your index finger slightly (Figure 5).

The cue should slide easily between your fingers and at the same time hold well. If it still doesn’t slide, try using a chalk or a special glove.

If you want to do a quickdraw, try to straighten your fingers as much as possible and press them into the table.

When klapstos (hitting strictly in the center of the cue ball), give your palm the shape of an inverted bowl, slightly pulling your fingers towards the wrist.

To perform the roll-up, pull your fingers even further towards your wrist, forming a bridge at the tips of your fingers. Remember to keep your wrist pressed to the table at all times. It is important to adjust the height of the cue above the table when striking using a bridge rather than raising or lowering the cue bar.

If you think that this grip is too difficult for you, try learning how to do an open bridge.

Open bridge

Many people experience some difficulties when forming a closed bridge. This type of bridge requires special flexibility in the finger joints and wrist. In addition, with certain impacts (for example, a jump), a closed bridge is far from the most advantageous option. In such cases, it is better to use an open bridge. Many (if not all) snooker players use an open bridge purely for the importance of precise aiming: with an open bridge, your line of sight along the shaft is not blocked by your index finger. For the same reason, many Pool players prefer an open bridge.

So, we form an open bridge:

1) start from the position described in Fig. 2;

2) Instead of wrapping your index finger around the shaft, simply lift the tip of your thumb so that your thumb and index finger form a "V". That's all - the open bridge is ready (Fig. 6);

3) in order to raise the level of the cue above the table, tighten your fingers and shape your palm into an inverted bowl. To lower the level, press your palm against the table (Fig. 7);

4) some players bend their fingers, as shown in Fig. 8. This is not the best idea, however, such a bridge can be used.

Bridge for shots over the ball

If you need to hit the cue ball through the ball, proceed as follows: resting four fingers on the table surface behind the interfering object ball(s), raise your hand to the required height and place the cue on the rest formed by the thumb and the knuckle of the index finger (Fig. 9) . This is not a very convenient stop, but it is extremely necessary in practical game.

Bridge for side kicks

If the cue ball is more than 10 cm from the board, place your support hand on the rail and place your thumb under your index finger. Move the cue close to your thumb and grasp it on the other side with your index finger as in Fig. 10. When making a strike, keep the cue horizontal as much as possible.

If the cue ball is less than 10 cm from the edge, place the cue between your thumb and index finger.

Place the remaining fingers on the handrail.

Using an open or closed bridge is one of the few alternatives within proper hitting technique. Perhaps such a comparative characteristic will help you decide which wrist rest you should use for a particular blow. It will also help you understand why some strikes are more effective when performed with a closed bridge, while others are more effective when performed with an open bridge.

For your convenience, we will provide a comparative analysis of the advantages and disadvantages of open and closed wrist rests.

Open bridge

Pros

The aiming line when setting the V-shaped bridge is not interrupted, the entire cue shaft is visible. That is why an open wrist rest is preferable to use for long shots that require pinpoint precision.

You can strike over masking balls: in this case, the open bridge will not lose stability, since, unlike the closed one, it is placed on four fingers. This design is much more stable than a closed bridge without wrist support.

The number and variety of actual strikes performed with a V-rest are much greater. Simply put, any shot from a closed bridge can be performed with an open bridge, but vice versa - it is not possible.

Possible disadvantages

During a strike, the shaft can move to the side and upward; it is fixed much less rigidly than inside the “ring” of a closed stop.

Short players and children who are forced to hold the cue too close to the center of gravity increase the likelihood that the shaft will “fly” upward like a well crane.

Closed bridge

Pros

The shaft almost does not deviate, its movement is strictly straight, which gives confidence at the time of aiming and when striking.

You can also be sure that before, at the moment of impact and after it the cue will not move upward. If the swing motion is straight, the shot lands exactly at the point on the cue ball that you are aiming for.

Children and short players can hold the cue closer to the center of gravity without fear that the turnbuckle will outweigh the shaft and it will go up at the moment of impact.

Possible disadvantages

The index finger, grasping the shaft from above, interrupts the line of aim - this can interfere when you need to perform an extremely accurate blow. By the way, snooker players who need extreme precision with every shot only use an open rest.

It is almost impossible to hit the cue ball through the ball, since in this position the closed stop is extremely unstable. It is largely limited by anatomy. With a closed bridge, it is almost impossible to make a shot if the player has to stretch his body and also play from the boards.

However, despite the listed advantages and disadvantages - quite objective - the choice of a wrist rest in many situations is determined by personal preferences of the shrok, and nothing more. For example, the world champion in “Nine”, Taiwanese Fong Pang Chao, plays mainly with an open bridge, and hits the “nine” itself with a closed one.

How to determine the aiming eye?

Before learning to play billiards (and not only), you should determine which eye you have as a target. For many, such a question does not even arise - “...I aim with my left/right eye, because it’s more convenient...”. In most cases, this is true - and the eye with which you aim is the target eye. It is known that some people have a right eye, others have a left one, but there are also people with both eyes.

Determining the aiming eye is very simple.

Place the chalk on the far short side of the table, stand at the front short side, without closing your eyes, point your finger at the chalk and focus your gaze on it. Now close your left eye: if your index finger continues to point at the chalk, then your right eye is the target eye. To finally verify this, close your right eye: you will see that your finger is not pointing at the chalk at all, but at some other point.

Accordingly, if, with your right eye closed, you correctly point to the location of the crayon, then your target eye is the left one. If your finger only slightly deviates to the right or left of the crayon (depending on which eye is closed), then both eyes are aimed.

If your aiming eye is left, you try to ensure that when aiming, it is your left eye that is on the line of striking above the cue, and vice versa. A person who has both eyes aimed can be easily identified: his chin is directly above the cue.

You will also find it useful following tips:

Once you have decided how and what ball you will play, focus your eyes on the object ball and not the cue ball as you aim and hit;

While making a shot, do not move your gaze from the object ball to the pocket being played.

Hitting the cue ball with a cue

The type of hit on the cue ball is determined by the direction of displacement of the point of impact from the center of the ball. There are nine such directions, and each of them determines the name of the blow.

Nine main points of impact

Klapstos (shot to the center of the cue ball)

One of the main shots that allows you to “place” the ball for sure. When klapstos strictly in its center in a plane parallel to the surface of the billiards, the cue ball receives only forward movement and, having touched the table with the “alien” ball, stops in place. The ball being played will bounce in the desired direction. While a useful and beautiful shot, the klapstos is easy to execute close to the object ball, but very difficult to execute long distance.

Klapstos is most difficult to perform if the cue ball has stopped, tightly pressed against the side from which it is to be played. In this case, the blow is delivered somewhat unusually: the thick end of the cue is raised upward with the intention of touching the point closest to the center of the ball with the sticker.

Klapstos, a blow to the center of the ball, is the cornerstone of all billiard techniques, and without mastering it, you cannot move on to practicing other, more advanced techniques. difficult shots.

The remaining eight blows have the general name effe, that is, a “twisted” blow, from which the ball, when moving forward, also begins to rotate (blows with rotation).

Roll up

(hit the top point strictly above the center of the cue ball)

Often it is required that the “own” ball, after contact with the “foreign” one, moves forward. To do this, a long, drawn-out blow is applied to the top of the cue ball.

In addition to a push in the direction from the player, the cue ball will receive a rotational movement and, after colliding with the ball being played, it will pause for a moment and roll forward.

Reeling is usually used by beginners with great pleasure, since it does not cause any particular difficulties. It is believed that when rolling, the blow and aim are most accurate.

Guy

(hit the lowest point strictly below the center of the cue ball)

If it is required that after the balls touch, “one’s own” goes back, then the blow is struck to the lower part of the cue ball. In contrast to the rolling shot, along with the forward movement the cue ball will receive rotation around a horizontal axis in reverse side and, staying in place, will roll back after the impact.

Right side

Left side

The next four strikes are the most difficult and are called combined strikes, since if they stay in place, they will roll back after the strike.

The quickdraw is considered one of the most beautiful and difficult blows; its application is very extensive. When pulling, instantaneousness and softness of the blow are important. The condition of the sticker is of great importance: only a well-marked, rounded, elastic and rough surface will make it possible to execute the blow correctly.

The first three hits considered ensure that the cue ball either stops or moves forward or backward after colliding with the ball being played. Klapshtos, reeling and pulling are usually referred to as simple blows.

If it is necessary that, after a collision with an object ball, “your team” rolls to the right or left, then more complex side or French strikes are used. They appeared on the first pocketless French billiards in carom games, but became widespread only after the improvement of cues and the invention of the leather sticker. The main advantage of side kicks is the ability to play back and exit.

Right side

(hit a point strictly to the right of the center of the cue ball)

With such a strike, the cue ball receives, in addition to forward movement, a rotational movement around a vertical axis passing through the center of the ball, counterclockwise and, having collided with the ball being played and transmitting a translational movement to it, spinning like a top, it will only go to the right.

Left side

(hit a point strictly to the left of the center of the cue ball)

The action of this shot is similar to the previous one, only the cue ball receives a vertical clockwise rotation and, after colliding with another ball, will go only to the left.

The next four strikes are the most complex and are called combined strikes, as they simultaneously include elements of side strikes, as well as a roll-up or pull-up (sometimes called a side roll-up or side pull).

Upper right side, or roll to the right

(hit a point to the right and up from the center of the cue ball)

This shot is performed if it is necessary for the cue ball to roll to the right and forward after colliding with the object ball. The blow with the cue is applied to the upper right part of the ball smoothly and lingeringly. Rolling to the right imparts three types of movement to the ball:

Forward movement;

Accelerating movement - roll up,

A certain, barely noticeable deviation to the right side due to the lateral rotation of the ball around the vertical axis, that is, the effect.

Upper left side, or roll to the left

(hit a point to the left and up from the center of the cue ball)

The consequences of this hit are similar to the previous one, only the cue ball goes to the left and forward.

Lower right side kick, or pull to the right (hit to a point to the right and down from the center of the cue ball)

As a result of the impact, the cue ball is “pulled” back and to the right after the collision.

Lower left side, or pull to the left

(hit a point to the left and down from the center of the cue ball)

In this case, “your” ball, colliding with the one being played, is “pulled” back and to the left.

However, you should not always hit exactly one of the indicated nine points on the cue ball - the distance of “your” ball from the one being played is of great importance. For example, if before the roll shot the cue ball is at a distance of 0.5–2.5 m from the object ball, then the cue strike is delivered approximately to a point located midway between the center of the “own” ball and its upper edge. When hitting another ball, the cue ball, although it will lose some of the energy received, will retain rotation around a horizontal axis, which will give it the opportunity to continue moving much longer than if it did not have such rotation.

If “your” ball is 0.2–0.5 m away from the target ball, then hitting the cue ball with such a cue will not result in a roll, since the ball will not have time to receive the rotation of the required force in such a short segment. Therefore, in this case, to obtain a roll, a short strong blow is applied almost to the very top edge of the ball.

It is necessary to make a similar adjustment when choosing the point of impact, taking into account the relative position of the cue ball and the ball being played (when performing backdrops and side shots).

Reflected blows: doublet and apricole

When playing reflected balls, that is, doublets, triplets, etc., three laws of physics applicable in billiards should be taken into account:

2) the angle of incidence may not be equal to the angle of reflection (with lateral);

3) with an increase in the number of hits of the ball on the board, the probability of it falling into one of the pockets increases (if the initial movement of the ball is not perpendicular or parallel to any of the billiard lines).

So, the main shots when playing reflected balls are:

a) doublet;

b) apricole.

Doublet

Doublet - a shot in which the object ball first hits the side and then enters the pocket (Fig. 13).

You can play doublet regardless of whether the object ball is near the side or not - the whole difference will be in the sight. To successfully perform a doublet, it is necessary to correctly calculate the point of striking the cue ball and the aiming point.

Straight doublet

In this case, the object ball is hit directly “on the forehead”, at the very center of the ball. The force of the blow when playing a straight double into the middle and corner pockets is different. A double into the middle pocket is performed with a light blow, with the expectation that if the ball does not play, but hits the lips of the pocket, it will move some distance away and there will be no obvious support. You should only play into the corner pocket with a strong blow: if you play quietly, then in case of an inaccurate blow the stand cannot be avoided.

Cut doublet

This blow is more difficult than the "straight" double. In a position where the angle of incidence is not equal to the angle of reflection, it is better to “cut” the object ball rather than play “head-on”. In this case, the angle of reflection may increase compared to the angle of incidence (Fig. 14).

Cruise

The shot is performed in the same way as a cut double, but in the case when the cue ball is at an obtuse angle to the line connecting the middle pockets (Fig. 15).

Apricole

Let us recall that an apricole is a shot in which the cue ball first hits the side and then the object ball (Fig. 16).

For example, if the object ball is covered by intermediate balls, you can play with the cue ball thrown away from them and reflected from the board. The cue ball twists slightly to the left or right depending on its position.

To fully control the execution of doublets and apricoles in billiards, you must:

Determine the aiming point when hitting from the side;

Build in your mind the trajectory of the object ball;

Determine the force of the blow;

Correctly determine the point of impact on the object ball.

There are several laws of physics that must be consulted when executing reflected balls.

Let us recall two of them:

1) the angle of incidence is equal to the angle of reflection (with a simple impact);

2) the angle of incidence may not be equal to the angle of reflection (with lateral).

How to determine the aiming point when striking from the side? There are several methods for this.

"Mathematical calculation"

If the cue ball and object ball are the same distance from the board, it is worth aiming at a point on the board, right in the middle between the balls. But what to do in the situation shown in Fig. 17?

In this case, the formula is suitable: Y = AX: (A + B). But you are unlikely to walk around the table with a ruler and a calculator, so it is wiser to use diamonds on the edges of the table, comparing the distance between the diamonds and the distance of the balls from the edge. Yes, this requires a good eye and a clear vision game situation in the mind, which is what billiard skill is built on.

"Cross"

Mentally draw a cross, as in Fig. 18.

One line will go from the cue ball to a point on the board opposite the object ball, and the second line will go from the object ball to a similar point opposite the cue ball. These lines naturally have an intersection point. The aiming point (M) will be the projection of the point of intersection of the lines onto the side. This method is easy to use if the balls are relatively a short distance from each other. The aiming point determined in this way, in accordance with the laws of geometry, exactly coincides with the aiming point calculated using the above formula.

"Parallels"

We find the point in the middle between the object ball and the cue ball (Fig. 19).

Then mentally draw a line between the point on the board opposite the object ball and the point determined at the beginning. The cue ball's trajectory will be parallel to this line. This method should not be used if the distance between the balls is too large.

The aiming point found in this way naturally coincides with the points determined by the above methods.

"Rectangle"

Let us mark a point on it that is the same distance from the board as the cue ball. Let's connect this point, the point on which the cue ball is located, with the points on the board opposite the cue ball and the object ball: this way we get a rectangle. The intended aiming point will be correct if it is in the middle of the side of the rectangle adjacent to the board. If you incorrectly determined the intended aiming point, there is nothing to worry about: you have already found it anyway. This is the point midway between Z and X.

"Mirror Image"

This method should be used when the cue ball and object ball are practically equidistant from the board, that is, the line connecting them is almost parallel to the board (Fig. 21).

Imagine a ball that is at the same distance from the board as the aiming ball, and on the same line perpendicular to the board. If the angle is small, you can even mark a line from the cue ball to the "imaginary" ball using a cue. So, the point of intersection of this line with the side will be the aiming point.

It would seem that what could be easier than rolling balls? In fact, the game of billiards is one of the most difficult, since all elements are equally important: shot force, stance, angle, etc. To become a high-level player, you need to practice a lot and put in maximum effort. However, you can understand the most basic techniques and the essence of the game in theory in a few minutes. How to play billiards correctly? First you need to come to the establishment and rent a table. You should be careful when choosing a cue and pay attention to the sticker that is glued to the end. It should be made in the form of a sphere and hold well. If there is chalk near the table, then you can start playing.

Rules of Russian billiards

There are two most popular types of this game all over the world: Russian and American. Let's look at them in order. How to play Russian billiards correctly? First you need to take a special triangle, position it so that the vertex stands at a certain point (it will be visible on the table). All balls except one are placed in a triangle. The game can be started from any side. The ball that is not in the triangle is intended for the first strike. It must be placed on another special point on the opposite side.

The player makes the first shot, and if any of the balls are pocketed, he continues. In case of an unsuccessful result, the right to shoot passes to another player. Here, two shots in billiards are distinguished: “alien” and “own”. The first looks like this: a player hits a ball, which, in turn, pushes another ball into the pocket. “Brother-in-law” is when the first ball hits another and flies into the pocket. Such a blow is typical only for the Russian type of game.

American billiards

The rules of the game (pool) differ significantly from Russian ones. Here the game is faster, easier and more fun. For a beginner, this type of billiards is the most suitable, since the pockets are several centimeters wider and, if desired, you can shoot several balls into one at once.

How to play American billiards correctly? To begin with, you also need to assemble a pyramid of balls, and place a white ball on the opposite side (all hits will be made on it). Then the player who got the first move breaks the triangle. The opponents need to decide which balls each of them will play. There are striped and colored balls here. Players must only pocket cue balls of their own type. In addition, there is a black ball that must be pocketed last. If it flies during the game, the player who hit is considered a loser. The game is considered correctly played if one of the opponents has rolled all his balls, and then the black one.

Basic mistakes of newbies

How to play billiards correctly? To learn this art, you must first of all have a strong desire. One of the most obvious ways is to visit a billiards club with friends. Just start playing, follow other, more experienced players, listen to advice and try to improve your level. About 95% of all beginners do this, and this is their main mistake. The fact is that not all people playing next to you are professionals, and their advice can be harmful.

To avoid such a development of events, you must immediately learn correctly, and for this you need to communicate only with high-level players. Playing on the level of intuition will not lead to success. No one has yet learned to hit the ball correctly, see the game and control it this way.

First steps

As in any other business, billiards has theory and practice. Of course, the process of playing is very important in order to become a professional. But no one has yet canceled the theoretical part. First you need to learn the rules of the game. As already noted, there are several types of billiards, the main ones being Russian and American. Everyone chooses for themselves the one that is closest to them.

In addition, there are billiard schools where, for a certain fee, they will turn any person into a good player. But you don’t have to visit this establishment to become a professional. Oddly enough, there is literature on billiards, and quite a lot of it. Most beginners are not interested in this and their skills will not be very effective. This is a very important step that will help you build the right tactics in the future. Thanks to books, you can learn the basics of this game, knowledge of which will make the learning process more interesting and faster.

Rack selection

The correct stance is half the success. This term refers to the position of the body during impact. However, to learn how to stand up correctly, you don’t have to hit the balls. First you need to take a cue and wrap your fingers about ten centimeters from its heavy end. The tool should not dangle, but you shouldn’t strain your hand either.

Then you need to go to the billiard table and place the thin end of the cue on its edge perpendicularly. The right leg should be placed under the right hand. Left leg you need to pull it to the left and place it half a meter in front of the right one. Then you need to place your left hand under the cue. It should go between the thumb and the knuckle of the index finger. The remaining fingers play the role of support. The palm should be on the table and the knuckles raised.

Then you need to place your head so that your chin is ten centimeters above the cue. Usually beginners always have shoulder pain, but this is a good sign. This means he did everything right, and with regular training the unpleasant feeling will go away.

Billiard shots

When answering the question of how to play billiards correctly, experienced players answer: first you need to learn how to hit the balls. It is recommended to use chalk before each action to help create friction. After this, you need to choose the ball that is best to hit and the direction where it will ultimately hit. Then you should use the rules for getting into a stance. It must be formed so that the line of impact passes through the center of the ball that should be hit and coincides with this direction.

Many establishments hold billiards tournaments, and it is better to attend them if possible. Professionals play there, and watching their actions, you can note something important for yourself. It should be remembered that before hitting you need to carry out several warm-up movements. The gaze should first be directed to the point where the cue ball will hit, then check whether the cue rests on the center of the ball, and finally pay attention to the aiming level.

Meaning of Impact and Stance

In any billiards school, the main focus is on these components. Whatever one may say, without the correct stance and the right shot there is nothing to do in this game. These skills deteriorate over time, so you need to constantly train them. Moreover, it is not necessary to do this during the game. You can come to the establishment yourself, rent a billiards table and practice your shots.

Before moving on to this component, you need to be able to stand up correctly. After all, it is almost impossible to make a good shot without the right approach. Therefore, in specialized schools they first train the stance. It is also recommended to watch video lessons and attend billiards tournaments. In most cases, entry to the competition is free, but the experience gained is invaluable.

Exercises for beginners

• Dry kick training. Here you need to move the cue along the line several times, you need to make sure that it does not go to the side.
• Hit “your” ball into the pocket. This is quite simple to do, but the process will build strength and precision.
• Hit someone else's ball. Little by little you need to try to introduce another cue ball into your training and try to hit it.
• Cut blows.

These steps represent a certain algorithm that must be followed when setting a shot. Even experienced players sometimes practice by placing two balls on the center line of the table. There are many options for getting out of this situation. The simplest one is to pot the “alien” ball into the middle pocket.

In this case, “one of our own” can bounce anywhere, and the next blow will be quite difficult to perform. Therefore, the position of the ball after impact is of great importance in the game. Professionals can make a klapstoss (a blow to the center of the cue ball), in which “their” ball will remain in place. If you hit with a backdrop, the cue ball will roll back and there is a chance of hitting the opposite pocket. If you hit with a roll, “your” will roll after the other and, perhaps, two cue balls will fly in at once. Such training will allow you to hone your skills in different types of shots; if such a situation arises during the game, many options will appear.

Training with a trainer

Many people believe that working with a professional is necessary on the path to becoming a high-level player. There is some truth to this. We have already looked at how to play billiards correctly and what is needed for this. If the goal is to become, then self-study is not enough. In this case, working with a trainer is mandatory.

Playing constantly among experts is worth a lot. After all, by training with the best, your skills develop faster. Once all the basics are covered, you can learn different tricks. There are a huge number of them in billiards, just standing or screwing. Of course, it is very difficult to perform such shots, but if you try, you can become a master of the game.

Some tips from professional players:

1. The first blow that breaks the triangle is called a "break". To successfully perform it, it is recommended to place the cue ball not at the central point, but 10-15 cm to the left or right.
2. To punch strongly, you need to stand up correctly. Feet shoulder-width apart, right on the cue line, left toe at a right angle.
3. To make a good blow, you need support. You cannot jerk your hand; the cue should be placed between the thumb and index finger.
4. The height of the support must be adjusted so that the cue rests 1-2 mm above the center of the cue ball.
5. For a soft strike you need the correct position of the cue. It should lie on the pads of the striking hand. While aiming, the weight must be kept on the back leg, then suddenly transferred to the front leg and punched hard. If you do everything right, the blow will turn out great.

Billiards - only seemingly simple and clear game, which requires only accuracy and basic knowledge of geometry. In fact, in the arsenal of professional players there are a number of interesting shots, ways to handle the ball and create a game strategy. One of them is the so-called “screw”. With its help, you can change not only the trajectory of the cue ball, but also the behavior of someone else’s ball, perform complex tasks, role-playing, and tactical actions.

If it is relatively simple, then not everyone knows how to spin a ball in billiards. Professionals, when conducting serious competitions, use such techniques only when necessary; performing a screw requires a lot of practice.

What is a "screw" in billiards

Screw is the conventional name for the rotation of the cue ball around its own axis after a hit. In addition to translational motion, it also acquires rotational motion, which subsequently affects its behavior after contact with another ball.

To perform such a shot, you need to move the aiming point from the center of the cue ball. Main aiming points on the cue ball:

• the center of the ball (a blow called "klapstoss")
• a point shifted strictly upward (rolling strike);
• displacement of the point straight down (strike with a pull);
• shifting the aiming point strictly to the right or left (strike with a right or left screw).

So, to give the ball a screw, you need to move the aiming point on the cue ball to the side. You can also give the ball an upper right screw (displacement of the point to the right and up), a lower right screw, an upper left screw and a lower screw.

Performing a blow with a screw

The billiard ball has the regular shape of a sphere. When you move your aiming point to the side, the shot on the cue ball seems to be sliding. To complete it successfully, follow these rules:

• chalk the cue sticker very well so that it does not come off during impact;
• carry out the blow itself smoothly, softly, without unnecessary effort;
• do not forget to maintain your line of sight: only the point of impact on your ball moves, but the point on someone else’s ball where you must hit remains in place.

Training of various twisting blows

You can perform kicks with rotation even when you have a well-positioned stance; straight and simple punches go well and without failures. First, practice hitting without someone else's ball. Place the cue ball on the center line. Alternately give it the right and left screw, watch how the ball’s rebound from the board changes. Then try using the screw in the game. Perform a shot that you are good at without a screw. Without changing the initial position of the two balls, perform the same shot, but with a screw, watch the behavior of the cue ball. It is important that someone else's ball falls into the pocket, as with a normal shot - this will be a test for you.

Train screw strikes yourself, try to use them in game practice. You don’t need to get too carried away with twisting punches, but you should definitely hone your skills.

The technique of hitting in billiards consists of several stages. The first of them is hitting the ball with a cue, the intricacies of which we will now consider in more detail.

The effective hit of the cue ball on the cue ball may be different, but it determines the nature of the subsequent movement of the ball on the table. The blow is struck with a cue at one of many imaginary points on the surface billiard ball.

The secret of a good strike is precisely to correctly determine this point and hit it. The accuracy of a shot in different types of billiard games is different (in Russian, for example, the accuracy is high and is measured in fractions of a millimeter).

Of course, in theory it is difficult to describe all possible hits on the ball, but it is customary to identify nine main points on the surface of the ball, hitting which with the cue we give the cue ball the required direction of movement.

1. The center point is located exactly in the center of the ball. “Hit the center” or “Klapstos” - firecracker from German. By hitting the center of the billiard ball, you impart to it a forward motion, which, taking into account the friction on the cloth, turns into a smooth rolling on the table. This shot, with a certain accuracy, is effective and, in the absence of interference, can be easily performed even by novice billiard players. However, in cases where the distance between the balls is large, or the cue ball is pressed against the side of the billiard table, such a shot is much more difficult or simply impossible.
   If the striker does not hit the center of the ball, but hits a little lower, the cue ball will not roll, but will remain in place, since the movement will be balanced by the rotation of the ball in the opposite direction. This blow is called a “stop”.
   It is recommended to master the technique of hitting the ball with a central strike, and then move on to more complex twists.
2. A roll - a shot to the top center point - is performed if the cue ball must continue to move forward after colliding with the object ball. This blow is also one of the simple ones, suitable for beginners. It should be performed long and smoothly.
   The rolling technique depends on the location of the balls. If the distance from the cue ball to the object ball is small (0.5 m or less), you should hit it casually, almost at the top point of the ball, hard and short. If the cue ball is at a greater distance from the object ball (more than 0.5 m), you need to hit the cue approximately halfway between the center of the ball and its upper edge.
3. Hitting the bottom point of the ball is called a “draw”. You should hit this way if you want the cue ball to not continue moving after the hit, but to roll back. The quickdraw is a blow for experienced players; not everyone can do it right away. You need to hit quickly and softly. Keep the cue parallel to the plane of the billiard table. If the distance between the balls is small, the cue should be raised and hit at an angle of 45º.
4. A hit to the left extreme point of the ball - the left side kick - gives the ball forward motion and clockwise rotation. After hitting the object ball with the cue ball, the cue ball will go to the left.
5. A blow to the right extreme point of the ball - the right side kick - gives the ball forward motion and rotation counterclockwise. After hitting the object ball with the cue ball, the cue ball will go to the right.
6. Hit to the upper left point of the ball - upper left side kick. With such a hit, the cue ball, after contact with the object ball, will move more quickly forward and to the left.
7. Accordingly, a blow to the upper right point of the ball is the upper right side. The cue ball will move forward and to the right after contact with the object ball.
8. Hit to the lower left point of the ball - lower left side kick. When performing this shot, you need to understand that the cue ball, due to reverse rotation, will move to the left and back.
9. Hit to the lower right point of the ball - lower right side kick. The cue ball will move to the right and back after contact with the object ball.

Screw. Rolling and pulling

Each game has its own twist. There is such a twist in billiards.

The name of this highlight is screw. According to billiard terminology, screws are shots when the cue ball rotates to one degree or another like a top around its vertical axis. A screw is a pre-calculated hit off-center of the ball. Moreover, depending on which part of the ball it is applied to, it is called that way: in the upper part - the upper screw, or roll; in the lower part of the ball - the lower screw, or guy; to the right of the center of the ball is the right screw, to the left is the left screw. There are also screws combined proportionally and disproportionately: upper right, lower right, upper left, lower left. This proportion is determined by the player for each specific blow. We can talk endlessly about screws. In theory, this is the most uncalculated and most uncalculated part.

Sometimes it’s not just beginners who get confused with screws. You already know that with an accurate center shot into the board at a right angle without a screw (the cue is placed exactly in the center of the cue ball), the cue ball should return straight to you. When you shift the point of impact with the cue ball, the cue ball will not come from the board exactly towards you, but will pass to the right or to the left. Brief description It is very difficult to make all the screw effects, but it is even more difficult to use screws in practice. Screws are most often used to change the trajectory of the cue ball. What effect does one or another screw have on the trajectory of the ball during a horizontal impact and under what circumstances?

There are many of these circumstances:

As a result of the action of the cue itself;

Due to interaction with the coating (cloth);

Due to interaction with the side (with the sides), when the propeller can also acquire the meaning of forward and reverse;

As a result of interaction with another object ball(s);

Depending on the degree of distance from the center of the point of application of force, that is, on the force of the screw;

Depending on the strength of the blow itself;

Depending on the completeness of contact with another object ball, that is, on cutting;

In all possible combinations of a specific game situation, where nothing can be arbitrary.

Let's start from the beginning of the list. The initial cause of all troubles is the fact that each blow with a cue on the side surface of the ball deflects it in the opposite direction. The left screw is to the right, the right screw is to the left.

If the distance between the balls is large, then “your” ball will become subject to the effects of rotation and begin to turn in the direction in which the blow was made. The strength and quality of the blow, the degree of screw, and the quality of the coating are very important here. For horizontal impacts, these deviations will not be large, but they must also be taken into account when assessing each side impact. Now, trying to impart maximum rotation to “his” ball during a horizontal strike, the player can go in two ways: firstly, remove the point of application of force from the center of the ball, and secondly, accelerate the movement of the cue itself, that is, make a more rapid blow. But we must remember one rule - you can remove the point of application of force when screwing no more than 60% from the center. It is here that the critical limit of a controlled strike is reached; beyond this line the cue will overtake the ball upon impact.

It is often necessary for “your” ball (or cue ball, as you wish) to move forward after a hit. To do this, you need to hit the cue ball with a long, drawn-out blow to the top. This must be done smoothly and slowly, and the direction of the strike must be in a plane parallel to the billiards. There's another one little secret roll forward. With such a blow, it is important not only to hit the top of the ball, but also to lower your right hand a little so that the blow goes slightly upward from the bottom. Then the cue ball, moving forward, will also spin from top to bottom, and when it hits the object ball, it will only transfer its forward motion to the latter, and after the hit it will continue to move forward. Such a blow, as you already understood, is called “rolling up”. Rolling up is the most common and easy blow. All beginners start playing only by coasting. Moreover, when charging, the most accurate thing is to aim and strike. In the “combined pyramid” (“American”) this is generally the most common blow. As a rule, it is done so that after the blow is realized, the “brother-in-law” will roll up to the pocket. This is how the player makes a “way out” for the next shot. Often professional players finish the game by pocketing all 8 balls using exclusively the reel.

In order for the cue ball to move back after hitting the object ball, it needs to be given two types of movement: one translational, and the other rotational, from bottom to top, that is, give it reverse rotation. In this case, you must hit the bottom of the ball, and your right hand must be kept strictly parallel to the plane of the playing surface. Occasionally, players raise their right hand, as if making a slightly downward strike. As in the previous case, after the hit the cue ball will transfer forward motion to the object ball, but it will not roll forward, but after standing still for a second or two, it will move backward. This blow is called a "draw". This is perhaps the most beautiful, but also the most difficult blow. Many very skillful blows are unthinkable without a quickdraw, and its application is very extensive.

When making a draw, the player needs to concentrate on accurately fulfilling the conditions of this blow, and most importantly, on its complete completion until the moment you begin to rise above the table, wanting to give way to your ball. Concentrate on the blow, because the ball will not come running back “at the behest of the pike.” Don't expect great results right away either.

So, when hitting the cue in a plane almost parallel to the plane of the billiards, do not swing the cue too much. When pulling, the most important thing is the instantaneity and softness of the blow, not force. Oddly enough, even if you need to pull back strongly, it is not necessary or even necessary to hit powerfully. Moreover, the sticker is of great importance here. Elastic to a certain extent, and rough is best.

If you want to make a very steep draw and if the cue ball and the object ball are very close, then you need to hit the cue down at an angle of 45° (we talked about the need for such shots a little higher). Sometimes the need for a top-down shot appears when the ball is almost at the edge and there is no way to place the cue parallel to the table. This short and quick blow highest degree difficult, and using it will immediately reveal a prepared player. In terms of difficulty, this blow can be compared to a klapstoss across the entire table. The more specific game requirements you put into your shot, the more control over your shot technique will be required during execution.

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